The Isle of Luing is in Argyll and the Inner Hebrides, located South of Oban on Scotland’s adventure coast. It is one of the famous Slate Islands (along with Seil and Easdale). It was part of a bustling Slate quarrying industry on the islands. Luing has a population of roughly 200 people. The island is made up of 3,500 acres, and much of this is a working farm.
It is an approximate 30-minute drive from the centre of Oban town through beautiful scenery and the delightful island of Seil, which connects to the mainland via a small bridge, known as the ‘Bridge over the Atlantic’. After passing through Seil, you reach the ferry terminal at North Cuan, which takes you across to South Cuan on the Isle of Luing. The ferry crosses the Sound of Cuan and is a mere 5-minute crossing from the Isle of Seil.
There are two main villages on Luing: Cullipool and Toberonochy. Smaller settlements around the island include South Cuan, Ardinamir, and Blackmill Bay. The Isle of Luing is the perfect location for a short break or holiday in Scotland, and one of these villages makes the perfect base for a stay on the island.
Toberonochy is situated on the south-eastern part of the island and looks across to the island of Shuna and the mainland. Toberonochy is a quaint village that was once a bustling slate mining village, housing workers for the quarries on Luing. It has small, whitewashed, cosy houses. Although it may appear quiet, Toberonochy is a vibrant community with regular communal events held in the village hall. Due to its more sheltered position on the island's East coast, it has more luscious vegetation and, come summer, is a beautiful mix of colours with local flowers in full bloom.
There is a lovely walk through Toberonochy and out towards the island's South end, with stunning views across to the mainland and out to sea. The area near Toberonochy Pier is a brilliant, grassy place with stunning views out to sea. It is a fantastic place to sit, picnic, and watch the world go by.
Cullipool is the most significant inhabited settlement on the north-west side of the island, looking out to other islands such as Scarba and Lunga, with Mull in the distance. It is also where the Atlantic Islands Centre resides. Cullipool was once a bustling village that housed and supported all the workers from the neighbouring slate quarries, the presence of which is still evident around the island. This village remains highly active, hosting numerous social events and community gatherings throughout the year. Due to its location on the island's more exposed North West coast, it has a rugged landscape with much evidence of its previous Slate mining heritage.
The Isle of Luing Community Trust operates the Atlantic Islands Centre, hosting several communal events annually. The Atlantic Islands Centre also hosts the local museum, which you can enter for free. This is a great place to start your journey on Luing to discover more about its historic quarries and slate. The historical exhibition also includes information about the surrounding waters and the landscape of Luing, showcasing its diversity. There are also additional exhibits and art exhibitions, so something is always new. The small gift shop offers a range of locally produced items and literature.
The Atlantic Islands Centre is also renowned for its delicious local produce, and the café is exceedingly popular with both residents and visitors. The cafe offers a local and seasonal menu that is ever-changing. The local produce features Luing Beef from the local Cadzow farm and langoustines from local fishing boats (My Tara).
The Isle of Luing Bakers are a team of local bakers who bake in their kitchens and supply the Atlantic Islands Centre with fresh cakes, flapjacks, and exciting, delicious baked goods.
Luing is one of the best areas in Argyll and the Isles for wildlife watching. Otters are common on Luing – particularly near the ferry at South Cuan, along the East coast and Blackmill Bay. Similarly, you can often see both Harbour and Common seals in the waters around Luing – they may even pop their heads up in the clear waters of Cuan Sound as you make your ferry crossing! Dolphins, Whales and Porpoises are common in the area and are often spotted in the early morning or sunset through the Sound of Cuan. The Isle of Luing is located within a Hope Spot and the Firth of Lorn Marine Special Area of Conservation. This means that our surrounding waters are protected and home to some of the most diverse species and healthy ecosystems.
Some feral Goats, Red, Fallow and Roe Deer graze happily wild around the island with farmed Sheep and Luing Cattle. These Deer and Goats can often be elusive, but if you are hill walking or walking in the evening near sunset, it is a good time to spot them up the hills or on the fields.
Birdwatching is particularly well-suited to Luing due to its varied coastlines and diverse topography. You can spot Sea Eagles, Golden Eagles, Buzzards, Hen Harriers and Kestrels flying above open ground and farmland. Seabirds and Waders such as Oystercatchers, Shags and Cormorants are often spotted in the waters and on the coastline of Luing. You can also spot Guillemots, Razorbills and Gannets at certain times of the year. Be sure to bring your Binoculars for a good chance of seeing these amazing creatures up close.
Luing has a diverse history, and after learning more about it in the free museum in the Atlantic Islands Centre, it is great to explore the landscape and buildings around the island. If you have a chance during your stay on Luing, be sure to pop up to Kilchattan Old Parish Church and graveyard. This is located on the left, just before you reach the village of Toberonochy. Here are carvings of longboats on the old church walls, believed to be the work of Vikings. They are locally known as ‘Viking Graffiti’. There is debate about whether they are related to King Alexander II (Scots King) at that time or if Vikings carved them. Either way, they are well worth a look as they are a significant part of Luings’ history as an island in the Inner Hebrides.
The famous Luing Cattle breed, which resides and is bred on the island, takes its name from the island itself. These cattle are a mix of Beef Shorthorn and Highland cattle. The Luing breed was created by the Cadzow family in 1947 to produce a hardy beef cow suitable for island living. The breed is well-known for producing high-quality beef and is recognised for its docile temperament. The farm still sells the Luing Beef today and supplies the Atlantic Islands Centre for their café.