Bag the MacPhies of Colonsay and Oronsay

The 22 MacPhies of Colonsay and Oronsay form one of the most demanding walking challenges on the Isle of Colonsay. The full round covers 21 to 23 miles of rugged, largely pathless ground, with one summit on the tidal island of Oronsay. A MacPhie is defined as a point over 300ft on the islands, and there are 22 of them over rugged terrain.

MacPhie route, summits and safety advice

If you are up for the challenge, the following list might help your pre-planning. This goes from north to south, starting on the sand at Port Easdail and finishing at the Strand (road-end), and assumes you ignore Beinn Orasa (due to nesting birds in spring). If you include Beinn Orasa, you may reverse the route to accommodate tidal constraints. The published route estimates show 2,419 metres of ascent without Beinn Orasa and 2,522 metres with it. Your total will depend on the route you choose. The list is based upon the Ordnance Survey, including the “official” spelling and any local variant, heights (if given) and Grid References.

Be careful: it is a long walk (21 to 23 miles), over rough ground, with no shade; make sure somebody knows your planned route and when to expect you back.

The classic challenge links all 22 summits in one continuous walk, starting and finishing below the high-water mark. There is no fixed starting point, finishing point or order.

The list below runs from north to south and gives summit names, heights and grid references. It is not a step-by-step route description.

1. Bheinn Bheag (A' Bheinn Bheag) 109m NR406986
2. Carnan Eoin (Carn an Eoin) 143m NR409985
3. Bheinn Bhreac (A' Bheinn Bhreac) 122m NR414987
4. Maol Buidhe (A' Mhaol Bhuidhe) 100m NR417983
5. Cnoc Mór Carraig nan Darrach (Cnoc Mór Charraig nan Darach) 92m NR413973
6. Beinn nam Fitheach 105m NR407967
7. No name (Dun Dubh, a' Phairc Gharbh) 104m NR407972
8. Beinn an Sgoltaire (Beinn a' Sgoltaire) 125m NR392975
9. No name (Beinn Uragaig) 120m NR385976
10. Beinn a’ Tuath (A' Bheinn a Tuath) 120m NR381971
11. Beinn Bhreac (A' Bheinn Bhreach) 139m NR375972
12. Mullairidh (Cnoc Mull-araich) 100m NR370965
13. Binnean Riabhach 117m NR364964
14. Carn Mór 134m NR373947
15. Beinn nan Caorach 126m NR366941
16. No name (Cnoc a' Raon a'Bhuilg) 120m NR372942
17. Carn na Cainnle 116m NR381945
18. Beinn nan Gudairean 136m NR388950
19. Carn nam Caorach (Carn nan Caorach) 110m NR392948
20. Cnoc an t-Samhla (Cnoc an t-Samhlaidh) 93m NR383926
21. Beinn Eibhne 98m NR378904
22. Beinn Oronsay (Beinn Orasa) 93m NR351893

There is no fixed start, finish or official speed record. Eric Brown completed the challenge in 6 hours 44 minutes in 1996, while Jethro Lennox recorded 3 hours 56 minutes 44 seconds in 2002. These are recorded examples, not recommended planning times. For a less demanding option, split the MacPhies over several days. Visit Colonsay suggests separate walks covering the northern, western and south-eastern summits, with Beinn Orasa completed when the tide and access conditions are suitable.

Discover the Inner Hebridean islands

Colonsay and its smaller tidal neighbour Oronsay are Inner Hebridean islands connected across the Strand at low tide. If you’re planning a MacPhie-bagging trip, you’ll need to know the tide times, as one MacPhie is located on Oronsay. Oronsay is a working farm and RSPB nature reserve. The Strand is passable for a maximum of two hours either side of low water. Seek local advice before setting out, follow signs, stay on the main track and keep dogs on a short lead or close at heel. Return before the tide comes in.

The islands lie about 15 miles south of Mull, while Islay and Jura lie to their south and east.

For more information

Staying the night?

 Book your stay at Colonsay Holidays to relax after your outdoor adventure.
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Good to know!

Plan ahead to make the most of your visit.
  • Safety: MacPhie bagging is a demanding, largely pathless challenge. Carry OS Explorer 354 and a map and compass, check the forecast, wear suitable footwear, and take food, water, and spare layers. Mobile coverage drops out across parts of the route. Leave your route and expected return time with a responsible person, then check in when you finish.
  • Ferry: CalMac operates services between Oban and Colonsay year-round, with additional connections to Islay during parts of the summer timetable. Sailing days and routes vary, so check the current CalMac timetable before planning your journey.
  • Motorhomes & Caravans: these may be allowed on Colonsay, but only if you contact Colonsay Estate on 01951 200211 before you travel.
  • Best time to visit: May to September offers the warmest weather and longest days, with wildflowers at their peak. Spring and autumn offer excellent birdwatching, while winter brings solitude and dramatic Atlantic storms.
  • Weather preparation: Pack layers and waterproofs year-round. Hebridean weather can change rapidly, but clear spells offer exceptional visibility and stunning light.
  • Accommodation: Book well in advance, especially for summer visits. Options include the Colonsay Hotel, self-catering cottages, and B&Bs, with some properties offering stunning sea views.
  • Facilities & Fuel: Scalasaig has a shop, post office, and the Colonsay Hotel. The Pantry offers local produce and artisan goods. The community filling station currently operates during staffed hours and accepts cards, not cash.
  • Mobile signal: Coverage is limited across much of the island. Embrace the digital detox and enjoy being truly disconnected.
  • Tidal crossing to Oronsay: Oronsay is accessible across the Strand for a limited period around low water. Check the day’s safe crossing times locally before setting out and return before the tide comes in. The walk to the priory is around two miles each way, so allow enough time for the full visit.
  • Wildlife watching: Keep a respectful distance from all wildlife, especially nesting birds and seals. Never approach seal colonies closely or disturb ground-nesting birds, such as corncrakes.